I used Matt Bickford’s Mouldings in Practice to do the lay out, a rabbet (rebate) plane and a No. 6 hollow to make this moulding. I also used milled on six side straight grained Sapele. Hopefully, the pictures explain the steps sufficiently.
I used Matt Bickford’s Mouldings in Practice to do the lay out, a rabbet (rebate) plane and a No. 6 hollow to make this moulding. I also used milled on six side straight grained Sapele. Hopefully, the pictures explain the steps sufficiently.
Wonderful!!!! That is beautiful. I bet it was a lot of fun.
It was indeed! Light cuts are the most important lesson learned for me especially with the hollow. Now I’ll be putting mouldings on every thing! 😀
beautiful, my friend
Thank you, sir! It helps, as you know, to have beautiful wood. 🙂
The pictures tell the story well! How did you pick a moulding design out from the presumably infinite possibilities?
Good! That’s good to hear.
I’m chucking about the question .. that’s a good one. I wanted something to help transition from the feet with stick out ~ 1/2″ and the moulding, which will cover the feet and stick out even more. Ideally the moulding profile will lighten the fat board that will cover the seam between the top of the fee and bottom of the chest.
It should make a bit more since in my next post where I attach the moulding to the chest.
BTW, I’ve been enjoying your blog a great deal.
Looks great Marilyn. Very clean moulding that needs no further work before finish. You gotta love that. My problem with hand sticking mouldings is the hollow and round part is so fun but less than probably 10% of the total work. It goes so fast!
Thanks!! It was your careful instruction that helped me make it. And you’re right, lay out and rabbets take the most time and the very satisfying round making is over before you know it. 🙂
Marilyn, looks great! I’m eager to try mouldings myself. I have a couple of H&R planes I picked up, but they all need a tune up first.
It’s a lot of fun!