Glamour Shots of the Dutch Tool Chest

I added the final details to the chest.  It didn’t take as long as it might have appeared.  The chest really came together quite quickly, but work really got in the way of this project.  If I had used Home Depot pre-milled lumber instead of wide rough popular the project would have been very fast.

One of my favorite details are the hinges.  They went in really easily and I thoroughly enjoyed doing business with John Switzer over at Blackbear Forge.  My only regret was that I didn’t take pictures because I squeezed the installation in here and there.

I also used nails instead of screws for the joinery and the handles (more cinched nails).  But the hinges are screwed as well as the chisel rack.  I also made some of the dividers adjustable.  The moulding was cut by hand using my newly acquired moulding skills from Mr. Bickford and my really awesome moulding planes from Philly Planes

I decided against the saw till under the lid because my most used saw didn’t fit without complicated angles and spacing to avoid the tools below.  I might put one in later.  I’m really happy to have all those tools under cover.  

Here are the rest of the details.

Chest dimensions: 27″ long x 25 1/4″ high x 16 1/4″ wide

Weight empty and loaded: 41 lbs and 105 lbs

Hardware: Blackbear Forge

Milk Paint Finish with Boiled Linseed oil on top. 

Design:  October 2013 Popular Woodworking Issue # 206

See all the posts associated with this project here: Dutch Tool Chest

For a closer look at any of the pictures, right click and open in a new tab.

Six board chest glamour shots

From above.
From above.

Wood: Sapele – Hardwood to Go

Preparation: Top is sanded to 320, all other surfaces are hand planed / scraped.

Finish: Watco Teak Oil

finish (1 of 1)

Moulding class interuption

Bet you thought my next post would be about my finished six board chest.  Sadly, not .. BUT for a good reason!  🙂

Months ago, I signed up for Matt Bickford’s Moulding Plane class at Port Townsend Woodworking School and it was this weekend.  As usual, it’s always really fun to go to PT and our class was a good one.  From what I can see Matt works his butt of setting up a system that works for beginners.  I can’t imagine how much time he’s spent figuring out all of this.  

BTW, moulding planes probably should come with a warning.  There is math and visualization involved.  I had a fried brain by the end of class.

Here are a few shots from class.

PS.  I also got a chance to meet  Rob Campbell of The Jointer’s Apprentice who now works there!!

Installing the moulding – Doh!

I used the following section from Chris Schwarz Six Board Chest Chapter to help me install the moulding around the chest.  His process worked great, but my lack of fore sight resulted in less than fabulous results.

Wrapping moulding around three sides of a carcase is cake compared to making the full 360°. Focus on getting one corner good and tight. Then clamp those two pieces in place on the chest and mark the other corner for its miter.

With both miters cut on the front piece you can focus on getting the fit tight on the returns (the pieces that “return” down the ends of your chest).

I leave the returns long until after everything is glued and nailed in place, so don’t mess with those until you have to.

Planting moulding is an art. There are lots of ways to do it; I learned how to do it from a trim carpenter. I drill pilots for my fine finish nails through the moulding and push them into the pilots with my fingers until the tips of the nails protrude slightly (almost nothing) from the moulding.

I fit the miters on the carcase and then tap the nails into the carcase so they bite the carcase. Then I remove the moulding and add glue to the moulding. Glue the entire front of the moulding. On the returns, only glue the miters and the front one-third of the moulding to the ends.

installing the moulding (3 of 7)
Moulding glued and nail driven in.

Press everything in place for a minute or two. Then drive the brads. The moulding should not shift. Set the brads. Then saw the returns flush at the back of the carcase. The base is complete.

Returns trimmed.
Returns trimmed.

So why didn’t my mitres close up?  I didn’t get my case exactly square and once the nails were in, I was’t able to fix it.  Doh!