Sapele

That didn’t turn out so bad ..

Remember Twist and Shout! I went ahead and cut the wood into frame parts. After some well placed hand planning to flatten the individual pieces, it all came together pretty nicely. Yippee! 😀

This was my first attempt a matting and making the frame. I used a mat cutter to do the matting.

Twist and Shout!

I bought a nice 8′ piece of quarter sawn Sapele to make picture frames. I ripped it and put it on the shooting board to cut the rabbet for the picture to fit in. I had to clamp in down to cut the rabbet and when I un-clamped it, check out what happened.

Clamped down on the shooting board.

Un-clamped and Twist!

And the bend is not your imagination.

I’ll cut this into shorter sections to make the frame, but I’m not sure if that’s going to help. Sigh …

Moulding for the six board chest

Start with milled squared stock. Mount on a sticking board.

Then layout lines per Matt Bickford’s Mouldings book.

Scribe deep layout lines on the top for the first rabbet.

Mark depths on the sides and ends. BTW, I marked the line for the round plane incorrectly here.

Cut the first rabbet to the correct depth. Start the cut by turning the rabbet on its edge and sticking the edge of the blade in the marking gauge line.

Once its cut to the proper depth mark in the width of the second rabbet.

Cut the second rabbet and mark the third.

Remove the center ridges with the No. 6 round.

Even up across the length of the moulding.

I used Matt Bickford’s Mouldings in Practice to do the lay out, a rabbet (rebate) plane and a No. 6 hollow to make this moulding. I also used milled on six side straight grained Sapele. Hopefully, the pictures explain the steps sufficiently.

Ewww .. pretty board, pretty board

I started cleaning up the stock I got for the moulding piece that wraps around the bottom of the chest. Its obviously straight grained and joy to work with compared to the twisty, turney grain in the other boards. It’s smaller size and ease of working made it an easy evening project.